POINTS TO REMEMBER ABOUT CRABGRASS & BROADLEAF WEED CONTROL

• Crabgrass & many other weeds are "annuals" that must start over from seed every year.
• Pre-emergents can stop a wide variety of annual weeds & grasses from ever sprouting.
• Applications should be made before the crabgrass seeds germinate (by early May in North Dakota).
• Once applied, the barrier created by pre-emergents should not be disturbed or broken up (ex. vigorous raking, aeration or edging).
• Because crabgrass is an annual, it grows much faster than your good grass & can choke out areas of turf.
• A single crabgrass plant can produce up to 4000 seeds. If you have a little problem one year--you can have a much larger problem the next.
• A thick lawn, not mowed too short, is your best defense against weeds--no room for them to grow.
• Weed controls work best during cooler weather because weeds must be actively growing for optimum effectiveness.
• Spot treatments are better for your lawn & the environment.
• Total weed "eradication" is probably not likely, but regular treatments keep weeds under control.

Call or email for more info or to get services started.

701.222.3889  or  OSI@ServiceND.com

OTHER FAQ'S:

At what height should I mow my lawn?

3" to 3-1/2" is the recommended mowing height for most northern turf grasses during mid-summer. Taller grass has deeper roots, which can reach water more effectively & better endure heat & drought stress. Taller grass also shades soil, helping to reduce water loss & prevent weeds from invading your lawn. If you mow the lawn too short, grass plants won’t have enough foliage to sustain growth. Resulting in a thin & weak lawn, as well as having a poor root system. This type of lawn is prone to weed infestations & lawn disease outbreaks. It's OK to mow shorter during the cooler weather of spring & fall. Mow grass at the right height & you’ll create a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant lawn that’s not easily infested by weeds.

Does OSI use granular or spray products?

Both! We use granular fertilizers to feed the lawn & liquid sprays to control weeds. Granular fertilizers offer longer-lasting color, because we add nutrients to the soil itself. But sprays are most effective in eliminating weeds. So we use a two-part application process for maximum results, using the best methods for both "weed & feed"!

How long should it take for weeds to die?

You may expect to wait 7-10 days for weeds to die, according to most herbicide labels. Different weeds will respond differently to herbicide applications & weather conditions may also influence response. If a week passes after our OSI application & weeds are not showing definite signs of dying, please call so we can re-apply as needed!

How much should I water my lawn?

1" to 3" every week. 1" in the shade & up to 3" in the sun. 1" in cooler weather & up to 3" during periods of hot weather. Use a rain gauge to determine how much water is being delivered by your sprinkler system (even an empty tuna can set under the sprinkler will work). Too little water & your lawn will go dormant or die. Too much & it can saturate soil to the point where turf roots lack air & cannot grow deep as desired. High temps, lots of sun, dry winds & drought mean you need to water more. Cooler temps, clouds or shade, high humidity or rain mean you can water less. Soil conditions (sandy to clay) will also influence how much to water.

How often should I aerate my lawn?

Annual aeration is ideal in our northern climate. There are many benefits to aeration:  1.) Loosening compacted soils,  2.) Offering air, water & nutrients easier access to turf root zone,  3.) Encouraging a deeper rooted lawn,  4.) Encouraging new growth from a pruned root system,  5.) Providing a great opportunity to over-seed thin areas of lawn or to introduce a new variety of grass into your lawn,  6.) Best practice for treating/preventing fungal turf disease,  7.) Maintaining a healthy & beneficial thatch layer. "Fertilize for a green lawn; aerate for a healthy lawn!"

How often should I mow my lawn?

Every 5 - 7 days is ideal. Mowing frequently at the proper height encourages a thicker lawn & gives you that beautiful "fresh cut" appearance more often! The most important mowing rule is to never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass in any one cut. Using a mulching mower, rather than bagging the clippings, "cuts" your mowing time in half.  Meaning you can mow twice as often & still not spend any more time. There are also benefits to recycling stored nutrients of the mulched clippings back into the lawn. If you don’t mow grass frequently enough, plants become weak & lanky, causing the lawn to lose its vitality & possibly allowing it to harbor insects & even small rodents. Grass that’s too tall is also tough to mow.

What are the brown spots or rings in my lawn?

There are a few possible reasons:  1.) "Dog spots" caused by a dog urinating excessively in a small area will result in a "yellow" dead spot surrounded by darker green grass.  2.) A fertilizer spill causing excessive nitrogen (urea) in a small area, like a dog spot, will cause the grass to die. Fert burns may almost have an "orange" color.  3.) Grubs, the larval life stage of June bugs & other beetles, live underground & feed on the roots of our lawns. Too many grubs in a small area can lead to dead patches where turf can literally be lifted off, because the root system is gone & turf is detached from soil.  4.) Fungal turf diseases appear as "brown" spots, "frog-eyes" (brown spots with green centers) or "fairy rings". Fungal spores are in the natural environment, but remain dormant until favorable conditions exist (generally during periods of hot humid weather). It is then that they become active & result in damage to lawns. Call OSI for recommendations on how to avoid or repair spots in your lawn.

Why is my lawn color uneven?

There are several possibilities:  1.) In spring, different grass varieties green up at different times or soil temperatures.  2.) Hot weather makes it more obvious where sprinklers are distributing more or less water & where top soils may be thin or poor.  3.) Uneven spread of fertilizer will be evidenced by darker & lighter green "stripes" or "patterns".  4.) Sunny vs. shady areas will have color differences.

Why is my lawn so bumpy?

Night crawlers, more than likely! An abundance of earth worms & night crawlers can lead to a bumpy lawn. The bumpiness is more noticeable in the cooler temps of spring & fall, when there is more natural moisture (rainfall) & night crawlers are nearer to the surface. A thicker, more vigorous stand of grass, makes bumpiness less noticeable. Routine fertilization & aeration will encourage a thicker lawn. Good news is that the presence of night crawlers & earth worms generally indicates fertile soil & typically less compacted soils. Chemical elimination of earth worms in not generally recommended or advised. Maybe it's time to go fishing...!?